December 2007 Feature

Profiting from Scotland’s Tasty “Spirits”

By J.Herbert Silverman

Travel agents might not be aware of the fact that tourism to Scotland is getting a hearty boost worldwide from an unlikely source, the whisky industry of the Highlands and Lowlands.
Great houses like Dewar’s and Grant are building or expanding sophisticated visitors’ centers emphasizing the country’s history and providing a “taste” of its notable tipple while promoting the country’s historic rugged appeal.
Bill Lumsdon, master distiller at the famed Glenmorangie in the Highlands understands the appeal of visiting Scotland to admirers of its native product. “The whole industry is very buoyant right now with new markets opening up. Even the demand in China has suddenly gone through the roof,” he says. Jamie Bruton in charge of marketing for Glenrothes, a classic single malt produced in the Highlands agrees. “The appeal of visiting Scotland and tasting its aqua pura Scotch to these worldwide consumers is “inspirational.” With the worldwide explosion in Scotch whisky popularity, a new initiative called Scotland and Whisky “See the country, taste the spirit” with a website www.scotlandwhisky.com has been established to help visitors plan a whisky related visit to Scotland.
Classic Touring Innovation
Many years ago the enterprising folks of the central Scottish Highlands came up with a classic innovation in sightseeing - a 68-mile “whisky trail” where wanderers would come away with a taste of the countryside and one of the most popular tourist attractions in the country.
The trail starts in Dufftown, “whisky capital” of the Grampian region only a short drive from Aberdeen over the mountains and through the pass of Corsemall. Within a 40-mile radius there are some 39 distilleries producing the cream of Scotch whisky, the single malt. Not just any distillate, this version (without the “e”) is to the run of the still what a Chateau Lafite Rothschild is to a Chianti.
First stop is at the local Glenfiddich distillery operated by the sixth generation of the founding father, William Grant. Years ago, and dating to the time when whisky replaced claret as a national drink for all classes from noble to crofter, Mr. Grant set up his potstill along the Fiddich River in the glen, “Valley of the Deer.”
It was Charles Gordon, direct descendent of Mr. Grant, who decided that visitors to Banffshire, be they fishermen seeking prized salmon, tourists on their way to view the grandeur of the lofty Ben Rinnes, or Americans coming back to seek their roots, would miss an important experience if they neglected a visit to his distillery.
To warm the traveler’s heart and body too, since the Highlands tend to be chilly, Gordon established a hospitality center where one could take in the scenery while learning about the mysterious conversion of fresh barley to whisky via the giant copper stills whose lines resemble a great free-form sculpture.
The tartan-clad guides are almost as colorful as the 40-minute tour (plus shopping at a convenient visitors’ center for whisky truffles, whisky flavored marmalade and the product itself). Tours of Grant’s Balvenie Distillery provide visits to the floor maltings and cooperage and finish with a tutored nosing and tasting of a range of Balvenies. Visitors also have the opportunity of filling their own 20cl bottle direct from a cask in the warehouse.
Over a period of time, other distillers such as The Glenlivet also opened their doors and grounds to visitors. The Glenlivet is a magnificent three-story museum/distillery with requisite shop, dram room and ceilidh (festival hall). It’s heart is a vast recreated “washback” made from the original timber previously used for fermentation and now the focus of a sophisticated audio/visual exhibit.
On a practical note, by following the whisky trail, the visitor can enjoy some of the finest salmon fishing in the world and picnic in firths and hidden glens. Stay at the Knockomie Hotel in Forres where windows overlook the Moray Firth and rolling hills of barley with an art & crafts manor house built at the turn of the century. Or visit the Rothes Glen Hotel in Morayshire close by the Spey Valley. Watch the diminutive Jacobite cattle graze in the field and enjoy the views from turreted rooms in the 80-year-old castle built by the architect of Balmoral.
The outer islands have equally sophisticated centers. Unique among distilleries in Scotland, Morrison Bowmore on the outer island of Islay is now the only one with cottages for rent on the premises, the cottages have been done up beautifully and have proven to be a big success.
The Visitors Center at Bowmore, founded in 1779, has just undergone a major renovation. New displays have been created, with many archival bottles from the past (Scotland’s second-oldest distillery, founded in 1779). Since each distillery has its own set of hours and small charges to visit individual locations, check the easy-to-read distillery map at www.scotchwhisky.org.uk
For consolidated airfares and tours to Scotland, see pages L19 of the Listings Section.