Israel Young and Old

By Denise Dube

Tel Aviv’s David InterContinental and the Dan Hotels are designed to offer guests panoramic ocean views. For some, that ocean beckons, whether it’s winter or summer. Fortunately, Israel’s winters are gentle and warm enough to sustain those who are called to its sandy beaches. Visit www.InterContinental.com; www.DanHotels.com/Tel_Aviv/
My friend, Gretchen made a date with the water as soon as we arrived in Israel last January. “I’m going to surf,” she told our group of eight women bound for Tel Aviv, Israel’s best surfing spot.
The weather, in the high 50s and low 60s, was a bit chilly that week, but far colder in her Midwest hometown, one that held little to no chance of even encountering the ocean, let alone a view.
I had no intention of surfing. My job was getting pictorial proof that she braved the high white foamy waves that roared to the Israeli shoreline.
We left the David InterContinental early enough to easily cross the street that divided the ocean from Tel Aviv’s Neve Tzedek neighborhood and headed for a long cement and graffiti-ridden building near the marina. Gretchen, a determined soul, had searched for Ronnie and his small surf shop a day earlier. She would, she said, not leave Tel Aviv without participating in the city’s second favorite sport. (I’ll tell you about the first later.)
Ronnie’s shop was in a cement alcove between other businesses that had closed for the season. Ronnie kept his door open. He knew that tourists and Tel Avivians like to surf — in any weather. If they don’t know how, they want to learn – right here in Tel Aviv.
Even though Israel boasts warm weather during oh-so-mild winters, the ocean is cold in January, so surfers must wear wetsuits – and Ronnie has racks and racks of them crammed into his small shop. Some surfers are so committed to the sport that a wetsuit is part of their wardrobe. Others just rent his small, medium or large black insulated gear. On this January morning surfers were already in the ocean playing, evidenced by a sea line dotted with surfboards and black-suited swimmers following the waves.
I focused and aimed my camera while Gretchen was suited, warmed up and then ran into the sea with Ronnie following shouting instructions. After a few tries she stood, arms outstretched riding Israel’s waves just like the natives.
Although I laughed when I initially heard Gretchen’s plans, I wasn’t laughing when I left. I spoke to a few 30-something surfers who said the waves are some of the best in the region and their favorite sport.

Tel Aviv’s First Sport
So, what is the first Tel Aviv sport? Nightlife — and it goes on all night long. Unlike the natives, I don’t have the energy or the inclination to work all day, go home, grab a bite, rest for an hour and then hit the clubs at 10 or 11 p.m. Yes, that’s when it starts hopping. When it ends is anyone’s guess. Most say it doesn’t and people go home, shower and just head to work.
We hit “Mega Bar” a sleek glass and metal multi-floor facility that has a glass ceiling (or floor) upstairs. Although the music is retro- American 1980s that doesn’t daunt dancers who can move to any tune, as long as it has a beat. I decided to go back to the hotel and get some sleep. How they keep up this dizzying behavior is beyond me. They do though, because our guide, Carmela Ohev Zion and a few patrons swore that the city is awake all day for business and all night for play. It’s considered part of the real Tel Aviv experience. It’s not just for the young either. I questioned a few patrons sitting at the bar and was surprised to learn the ages ranged from 20-50. (Maybe that’s why the 1980s music?)
This bar was named “Mega” last January. Since then there are a few other bars with the name “Mega.” It seems ours may have adopted a prefix. Our guide for the night, Doron Ozer, said bars are like flash flames. They burn bright and are popular for a while and then a new one comes along and patrons go there instead. Sounds a bit like New York, which also never sleeps and has a great nightlife.
If you want to know what’s hot right now ask the hotel concierge. It seems everyone knows the trendiest bar – at any given time. It changes like the seasons.
They used to say, “Jerusalem prays, Tel Aviv plays,” but that is changing too. Tel Aviv isn’t the only spot with nightlife. Jerusalem rocks too, but it shuts down at what I would call “a more reasonable hour.”
Some visitors just aren’t interested in the nightlife. I’d be one of those. I flock toward the historical and archeological sites, which are found in all of Israel, whether you’re in Jerusalem, Haifa, Bethlehem, Nazareth, or anywhere else.
While in Tel Aviv, my idea of fun was eating at some of the trendy restaurants. Kimmel, which serves zatar-spiced Israeli Mediterranean, was spectacular. Carmela’s Bistro, tucked into an old building, was bustling with activity, music and lots of good food.
My favorite was Dr. Shakshuka’s kosher restaurant. Inside it’s eclectic and oddly decorated, but the food is fantastic and his fans visit from all over the world. Owner, Bino Gabso serves traditional food, but the famous shakshuka he’s known for resembles a Mexican favorite.
The shakshuka consists of sautéed tomatoes, spices, green peppers cooked in a small frying pan. When it’s bubbling, he deftly cracks two eggs over the top of the mix and lets it cook for a few seconds before serving it. Heuvos Rancheros and shakshuka, both incredibly good might well be the same dish with different spices in different corners of the world. Visit www.drshaksuka.rest-e.co.il
Food lovers will enjoy liveO, a boutique Olive Oil shop in Tel Aviv. The amber thick liquid comes in various flavors and intensity. Our group sat around and tasted a number of different oils, some spiced, some plain. The experience is similar to wine and coffee tasting and requires the full use of your palate. Visit www.levigne.net/olive-flavors.pd
During my Tel Aviv stay I visited Nalaga’at Center and saw the play, Not by Bread Alone. Nalaga’at employs more than 70 people who are hearing or visually impaired. This particular play consisted of 11 actors, both deaf and blind. I had no idea what to expect. How would they know when the scene changed, how would this work? It does. By tapping or nudging each other and by using cues these people managed, for a brief moment, to tell us what the deaf and blind world feels like. Most walk in curious, but leave visibly moved, shaken, or teary. I highly recommend any production at the Nalaga’at Center. Visit www.nalagaat.org.il
Don’t stay in Tel Aviv too long. There are other spots to visit and other sights to see – some new and exciting.

Daily Discoveries
Israeli archeologists are discovering more and more of the country’s deep past, which is amazing in this bit of land that is no larger than New Jersey.
The plaque of a female goddess, from about 1350 BCE, was recently found at Tel Beth-Shemesh. Thirteenth century stone structures were just exposed in Manasseh Hill Country. A 2,000-year-old almost 400-square foot synagogue, considered the world’s oldest temple, was found in Migdal near the Sea of Galilee. Mosaic floors and frescoes walls from the synagogue are intact and still being examined.
It’s a perfect time to explore newly found treasures throughout the country – and see these finds before anyone else.
While there one always visits Jerusalem, a city that calls to those who seek religion and history. This city is steeped in both. Yet another find was recently made in early October. Archeologists unveiled a stepped street they believe was used by pilgrims as a path to the second temple. Although it isn’t certain when this will open, there are other tunnels underneath the Wailing Wall that are open to the public. After tucking your prayers in the wall’s seams take a stroll through the maze of tunnels and streets that go under and beyond the wall. Visit www.thekotel.org/
Haifa offers the picturesque Bahai Temple. Public access is limited, but it’s worth a visit while there.
Jesus’ mother Mary’s home cave is on a side street in Nazareth. Although a church is built over the site, visitors who enter will see the small cave where her story began.

The Golden Grape
Israeli wines are finally hitting the shelves in America and some are winning awards. Why not? The land is perfect for grapes. Binyamina and Tishbi were only two vineyards I visited. During an earlier visit wineries weren’t making enough to export to any country. That changed in two years and Israeli wines are now on shelves in New York, Boston and other big U.S. cities. For more information, visit www.wineintro.com/regions/israel
Tishbi is family-owned and run and open for tours. It now has a café so visitors can enjoy a glass of wine with a sandwich. While there, you’ll notice neighbors come in with empty bottles. A steel vat filled with wine refills the bottles and another machine recorks them. It’s recycling at its best. Visit www.tishbi.com
Binyamina, a much older winery, has a different history. The fourth largest winery in Israel, it was started by Hungarian immigrant, Joseph Zeltzer in 1952 in the heart of the town of Binyamina. Although Zelter started the winery it’s actually on the 1925 site Baron Benjamin de Rothschild’s old perfume factory. Visit www.binyaminawines.co.il/ (google and translate)
You can’t throw a stone without hitting some of Israel’s past; although I don’t recommend throwing stones. Police and soldiers don’t take kindly to that kind of behavior. Dancing all night, now that’s another matter.

For more information, contact the Israel Ministry of Tourism at 888-77-ISRAEL; www.goisrael.com;
For more information on Tel Aviv, visit www.visit-tlv-com