DECEMBER 2010 COVER FEATURE
Adventure in the Negev Desert
By Denise Dube and Ryley Hartt
Though it occupies more than half of Israel’s total landmass, the Negev Desert remains a peripheral attraction to most visitors; a vast tract of seemingly intractable land best left to the transitory bedouin and the intransigent kibbutzniks. Of course, most of those who manage to make it this far south are likely to have come by way of Jaffa and Tel Aviv, up the coastal plain of the Mediterranean to Haifa and Akko and down through Jerusalem, stopping at the Dead Sea. To say that this is a tough route to follow is to put it mildly, and after taking in the bustling beaches of Tel Aviv, the superlative guestrooms at the King David Jerusalem and the natural beauty of the Dead Sea and Ein Gedi, it would seem impossible to go anywhere without noticing a pretty striking inequity in the way of population density, accommodations and natural attractions, respectively. Sadly, there are a lot of travelers who reach the end of the road and assume the ride is over—but it doesn’t have to be, not if you happen to have locking differentials and 4WD. Those who dare to enter the Negev will be handsomely rewarded. This hidden gem has always looked after its pioneers.
In truth, implying that the Negev is a secret might be a bit of a stretch. As the Israel Ministry of Tourism’s Director of Hosting Operations, Benjamin-Gad Ninnayi, was quick to point out, “There is a lot of history here. The Egyptians had copper mines in Timna Park. The Nabateans had trails from Petra through the Negev and beyond and brought herbs to Israel. Cleopatra had the salt rights in this area. Jesus was in this desert at one time.” Let us just say it deserves far more attention than it gets.
To Make The Desert Bloom
Though it may be sparsely populated, the Negev is a fascinating testament to the possibilities of human enterprise and ingenuity, and beautiful in a way that can only be fully appreciated by seeing it firsthand. Scattered across the vastly uninterrupted space are villages, kibbutzim, hotels and incredible spas that depict the history of an ideal carried out by hardy labor. It can be said that these kibbutzim and the desert that supports them have grown hand in hand. Interestingly though, the legacy of the kibbutz movement, which has always been a marginal phenomenon—accounting for only about 1.5 percent of Israel’s population—has grown to become one of Israel’s best-known “products.” These kibbutzim form an integral part of the desert experience, allowing travelers the freedom to use them as base camps as they make their way across the desert on jeep adventure tours like those organized by Adam Sela and his company Challenging Experience (www.adamsela.com).
There are approximately 270 kibbutzim throughout Israel and most of these offer tourist accommodations, though they vary in price and quality, ranging from basic guest rooms to top-notch hotels and spas. The first of these did not actually originate in the Negev but rather in the north, along the southern shores of the Sea of Galilee. Degania Alef (www.degania.org.il) was first established by a group of Jewish Zionist pioneers from Eastern Europe around the turn of the 20th century. The immigrants of the First Aliyah (translated: “ascent”) were mostly religious, and faced a great deal of hardship in the execution of their vision to replant and redeem the land by planting trees and draining swamps. With the Second Aliyah, spurred by Theodor Herzl’s book The Jewish State, a work ethic began to take the place of religious practice. The Third Aliyah (1919-1923) had a dramatic impact on farming. Following that, a fourth occurred around the time of the first anti-Jewish riots and the fifth (1931-1940) was brought on by the rise of Nazism. The kibbutz at the great plateau city of Masada dates to this period.
Masada, though technically in the Judean Desert, is still one of Israel’s must-see wonders. Here the desert has once again done its job and preserved King Herod’s desert home, where the Israelites stumbled across hilltop city stocked with supplies and spent a few years building a road up toward the wall of the fortress. Typically, visitors don’t linger here long enough to explore beyond King Herod’s ancient city before climbing back on the bus to head back to Jerusalem. 
Qumran is equally important, not just to see the caves, (which you cannot enter) but for the excavated city of the Essenes who lived, studied, wrote and preserved the Dead Sea Scrolls here. In 1947, a young sheepherder looking for an errant lamb threw stones into a cave looking to scare the critter out. Instead he heard a clinking noise. When he examined the site he saw a broken clay jar and in it, the Dead Sea Scrolls that we treasure today. Look off the cliff at the caves that dot the landscape. Are there anymore? Is it possible? It seems anything is possible here, where every time a shovel hits the ground another piece of antiquity is found.
Gateway To The Negev
Tel Beersheba National Park is one of the most impressive finds in Israel right now. Located east of the biblical town of Beersheba, it has been inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. It is biblically identified as the region of Negeb of Judah. Atop the tel (translated: “hill”), archeologists have found what they hope is Abraham’s city. It takes about 90 minutes to walk through the extensive complex, preserved for centuries by the dry heat of the Israeli desert. Most impressive is the intricate cistern and water collection system that stored enough water to supply the entire city for months.
Due south from Beersheba, Mashabei Sadeh Kibbutz (www.m-sadeh.org.il) is filled with flowers and trees and looks like any other town at first glance. But looking out from the water tower, it is clear that it is surrounded by the desert. Mashabei Sadeh is held in the jurisdiction of Ramat Negev Regional Council, which happens to be the largest of its kind in the country. There are some fascinating attractions to be found in this region, including the ancient incense route cities of Avdat, Haluza, Nitzana and Shivta. What you won’t find is anything that resembles a town or a city; this entire region is exclusively populated by communal settlements.
There is a new property for travel planners to be aware of, and that is a spa called Neve Midbar (www.neve-midbar.co.il). This health center in the Negev offers a selection of thermal healing pools. The council has already started building a 150-room hotel next to the spa to make it a full resort. With luck they’ll also offer mountain bikes and four-wheel-drive treks through the desert. Like the Kibbutzim and Eilat, Neve Midbar could become another home base for desert wanderers.
Wilderness Of Zin
There are two legacies preserved here in the central Negev, centered around the wadi (translated: “dried riverbed”) of the Zin River, the largest in the Negev. Sde Boker (www.sde-boker.org.il) is well worth a visit to learn more about the the legacy of David Ben-Gurion, the former Prime Minister credited with declaring Israel a state on May 14, 1948. Ben-Gurion believed firmly that cultivating the arid desert was the path to reclaiming his country’s nationality, and he chose to live here to set a personal example. While the rest of the kibbutz still thrives, Ben-Gurion’s home is now a museum.
From the kibbutz Sde Boker, many favor heading south to Ein Avdat, a canyon that draws plant and animal life for majestic viewing. Guides are recommended here as flash floods, although rare, have been known to fill the valleys of this desert. Avdat is also the name of the Nabatean Highland city that falls here along the Incense Route. Together with its sister-cities of Mamshit and Shivta, it is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 
The Ein Akev is a spring that flows out from the chalky slab at the end of a small canyon. Below a 50-foot waterfall, the slightly salty water seems to emerge mysteriously from between horizontal layers of rock, forming a deep pool and a popular spot for passersby to cool off.
The Southern Tip
Timna Valley and the park, only a few miles from Eilat and the tip of Israel, is known for Solomon’s Pillars and the site of ancient copper mines. It is now a geological park with trails for hiking. Climb the stairs to the top of the pillars and then climb down, but bring water. The dry heat tricks the body into thinking it’s not that hot. It is.
In Eilat (above), near the Red Sea, there is another new spa center emerging. It’s called Dolphin Reef (www.dolphinreef.co.il), and it really serves those interested in scuba diving, snorkeling, beach access and relaxation. More importantly, it respects the dolphins. People may swim in the area, but must not touch or disturb the animals. This center sits in the city of Eilat, close to shopping and a number of hotels. One could use this as a home base while wandering to other places.
Getting There And Getting Around
Continental, Delta, EL AL and US Airways operate as many as 10 nonstop flights a day from the United States to Tel Aviv. Nonstop flights operate from Atlanta, Los Angeles, Miami and both Newark and JFK. Flight time from New York to Tel Aviv is ten hours. Travel Agents should be aware that EL AL recently announced a new service to Eilat and are making it available to EL AL passengers flying roundtrip from the U.S. for an extra $40. This covers the full roundtrip fare from Ben Gurion to Eilat and can be used at any time during their vacation. To take advantage of the special rate call 800-223-6700 or visit www.elal.com
For more information on planning a trip to Israel, and for a list of local tour operators, visit the Israel Ministry of Tourism at www.goisrael.com
100 Years of Green — Interview With Haim Gutin, Israel Tourism Commisioner
The Ministry recently reported receiving 2.5 million visitors between January and September of 2010, a 27 percent increase from 2009. El Al reported a 15 percent increase in passengers from the U.S. What is responsible for this growth and how will you try to capitalize on it to make 2011 a record year?
Israel is on track to have its best year ever for tourist arrivals from the U.S., and generally for international arrivals to Israel from around the world—besting even 2008, which was our record year for incoming tourism. The growth can be attributed, at least in part, to our efforts in public relations and advertising initiatives in North America; the past year has seen high-profile coverage for Israel in such major travel media as Travel+Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler, The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal. And while much of the media attention in 2009 was focused on Tel Aviv, on the occasion of its centennial (the New York Times dubbed it “the capital of Mediterranean cool”), 2010 has seen dramatic exposure for Jerusalem as a world-class destination for the sophisticated traveler. The Galilee in the North and the Negev Desert in the South of Israel have also seen increased media attention for their eco-tourism and adventure travel assets. In 2011, we will continue our aggressive marketing efforts in North America, with a particular focus on Israel as a “green” destination.
Are there any special interest markets that you want to target for next year?
With our 100 Years of Green campaign central to our media relations efforts, the Israel Ministry of Tourism will put a lot of emphasis on educating the North American market about Israel’s strength as a “green” innovator, and an ideal destination for the increasingly popular segment of eco-tourism. 2010 marked the 100th anniversary of the founding of the first kibbutz at Degania—the original model for sustainable living—and since then Israel has remained a quiet leader in green innovations. The contemporary traveler to Israel can experience Israel’s innovations in all corners of the country—from kibbutz stays in the Galilee to farm-to-table restaurants in the Golan Heights to eco-friendly bike share programs in Tel Aviv to the Better Place visitors center outside of Tel Aviv, where tourists can test-drive the electric cars of the not-too-distant future.
You have recently launched two new websites (www.goisrael.com/Chanukah and www.evangelicalisraelexperience.com); can you tell our readers a little bit about who and what these were designed for?
The Chanukah website just relaunched for this year’s holiday season, after the tremendous success of last year. The site, which aims to educate visitors of all religious and cultural backgrounds, features virtual candles for visitors to “light” for each night of the eight-day “Festival of Lights.” With each candle lit, the visitor learns one more fact about travel to Israel. We developed the site in cooperation with the Conference of Presidents of Major American Jewish Organizations and will give one lucky visitor a free trip to Israel aboard EL AL. The Evangelical Israel Experience website was developed to reach out to the growing audience of Evangelical Christians interested in travel to Israel.
Are there any emerging attractions or destinations to report on?
In Tel Aviv/Jaffa, the newly renovated Jaffa Port and Ha’Tachana shopping and dining complex have emerged as super-popular tourist attractions. The new Jaffa Port draws locals and tourists alike with its hip restaurants, galleries and theater spaces, while the Tachana (built in the former run-down train station of Tel Aviv) features emerging Israeli designers and great restaurants.
Outside of Tel Aviv, the Design Museum Holon, created by internationally renowned Israeli architect Ron Arad, which opened in the summer of 2010, has fast become a magnet for art and design-focused travelers.
Also outside of Tel Aviv, the Ariel Sharon Ayalon Park is an oasis for eco-tourists. When complete, it will be the world’s largest urban green space, built on the site of a former garbage dump!
Can you give us an update on any new hotel inventory?
In the past year, Israel has seen a boom in high-end luxury hotels and boutique properties, including the Mamilla Hotel in Jerusalem, the Villa Carmel in Haifa and the Brown Hotel in Tel Aviv. In 2011 and 2012, we will see the opening of the Beresheet Hotel (the first luxury property at the Ramon Crater) and the Waldorf Astoria in Jerusalem.
Are there any long-running events that agents should be aware of and mark on their calendars?
Certainly, the return of the Masada opera weekend in June 2011, capitalizing on the immense success of the Nabucco at Masada events in 2010. In fact, this year’s events (June 1-11, 2011) have been expanded to accommodate the overwhelming demand from travelers and opera lovers alike, and will include: Verdi’s Aida at Masada, Verdi’s opera Jerusalem and a gala opera evening at the Sultan’s Pool in Jerusalem.
Agents can visit www.goisrael.com or contact us at 888-77-ISRAEL for addtional information.
Acre’s Old City Offers Layers of Local Flavor
By Alexandra DeLong
When people think of Israel, most often they think of Jerusalem, the Wailing Wall, the Dead Sea, the Tower of David, Tel Aviv, and Yad Vashem. Personally, I think of hummus. Rich, creamy garbanzo beans mixed with a pinch of garlic and a drizzle of olive oil can make any vegetable or boring piece of bread an instant masterpiece. And when I think of this mystical substance that transforms drab food into manna, I think of Humus Said in Acre’s old city.
Sandstone and Seawater
Just thirty minutes from Haifa on the most northern point of Haifa Bay, the 4,000-year-old town of Acre (Akko), lies in the western Galilee region of Israel along the Mediterranean coast. Once one of the largest ports in the area and ruled by the Crusaders, Ottomon Empire and the British, it is now a quaint fisherman’s paradise cast in the shadows of a Crusaders Fortress and surrounded by high sandstone walls. The magic of the old city was recognized by UNESCO in 2001, when it was declared a World Heritage Site for the extraordinary history preserved amidst its intricate alleyways, lined with colorful stands exploding with fresh seafood, rich scarves, vibrant Turkish rugs and turquoise jewelry. The sounds of laughter and bartering, the smell of homemade pitas and the feel of a cool breeze finding its way through the narrow cobblestone streets shows you that this is where the savory culture of Israel lives. The peaceful co-existence of Jews and Arabs, with Jewish and Arab shops often connected by shared doorways and streets, also lends a sense of security to the area that’s similar to that of Jerusalem. Located in the curvaceous stone hallways, near the old city market is the famous restaurant Humus Said. It is impossible to miss; the line is longer than for a ride at Disneyland and, like the rides, worth the wait. Humus Said has been open for the last 35 years and is regarded by many as the best hummus place in the entire Middle East. Even the locals flock there to take it home by the gallon.
Navigate the Underground
As fabulous as the hummus is in Acre, it can only be matched by the unique and rich history found lurking in the cracks of the walls and around every corner. Inside the walls of the fortress is the entrance to the Crusaders City and the beginning of the exciting “Knights of Hall Tour.” Take a journey through the past with a look at the Underground City, Templar Tunnel, Knight’s Hall, and the Prisoners Museum. The eerie feeling of a land lost in time echoes throughout the chambers with every footstep, from the ominous knights hall with its large oval doorways, to the architectural detail that has remained intact since the 12th century. The secret Templar Tunnel that weaves its way underneath the old city connects the fortress to the coast. It remained hidden until its accidental discovery in 1994. Further along in the tour is the Prisoners Museum, a place of darkness with tall iron gates wide enough for pleading hands to slide through and beg for freedom. In what used to be a citadel-prison during the time of the British Mandate, the sounds of leathery winged creatures scuffling around in the shadows is enough to send chills down your back. Here, the Jewish underground staged what was then referred to as “the greatest jailbreak in history,” though in reality it was not so long ago that the details--like a noose still hanging from the gallows--don’t leave a lasting impact.
Street Level Snapshots
For art lovers, the Okashi Museum showcases various Israeli artists during the year as well as an ongoing display of Ashalom Okashi’s exquisite works. The use of color in his paintings captures and engages his audience while focusing on themes of nature and spirituality. The exquisite Turkish bathhouses next to the museum are a must see, with beautiful marble floors and ceramic tiles glistening in the natural light that seeps through the windows in the circular structured rooms. Built in the 18th or 19th century, they were used for social networking among the rich and famous and give a glimpse into the transformations that Acre has endured under its various rulers. The Enchanted Gardens, blooming with exotic plant life in the Fortress courtyard house the town’s Visitor’s Center, open daily from 8:30am to 1:00pm.
Israel has a beautiful public transportation system making it incredibly easy to visit Acre from any city by bus or train, and once you’re in the old city, it would be a shame to do anything other than walk. Renting a car is also an easy way to get around with familiar names like Hertz and Avis right in Ben Gurion Airport. Whether you go to Acre to mingle in the marketplace, enjoy the Mediterranean view, sip fresh squeezed pomegranate juice or for the world’s best hummus, you’ll want to stay to experience this charming city that is one of Israel’s greatest treasures.
For information, call the Israel Government Tourist Office at 888-774-77235 or visit www.goisrael.com
Exploring The Eco-Way
By Gail Barzilay, Director, Public Relations, Israeli Ministry of Tourism
A Healthier, Cleaner and Greener Israel
According to the World Tourism Organization, eco-tourism is considered the fastest growing market in the industry. Eco-tourism is a vision for an environmentally sustainable destination. Currently, Israel’s largest eco-tourism project is the 2,000 acre Hiriya, a former garbage dump on the outskirts of Tel Aviv, that has been turned into a 24 hour recreational hotspot. Its soon to be completed ‘Ayalon Park’ will be one of the world’s largest metropolitan parks where visitors can enjoy a vast number of trees, hiking and horseback riding trails and tropical gardens. Visit www.ayalon-park.org.il/Eng
Near Netanya, the 10 acre Utopia Orchid Park at Kibbutz Bahan features a tropical rain forest with over 17,000 orchids from around the world, tropical plants (even carnivorous ones), fish, birds and other animals in a unique botanical garden. Visit www.utopiapark.co.il/english
Founded by the Vertigo Dance Association, Eco Art Village will bring together the creative arts and ecology to create a unique intentional community and retreat center for people across Israel and around the world. Located in the center of the country at Kibbutz Nativ Ha’Lamed He, plans exist for this village to grow into a self-sustaining eco-arts tourist center with programming combining art with ecological issues. Visit their website at www.eco-artvillage.org
Israel is the only country in the world that has more trees now than it did 100 years ago. 240 million trees have been planted in Israel since 1901 and the public is always invited to come and plant trees at JNF (Jewish National Fund) centers. JNF aims to plant seven million trees in the next 10 years for the purpose of absorbing carbon dioxide and supporting the fight against global warming. Visit www.jnf.org
Green Lodging
Israeli eco-tourism welcomes the yurt, a simple low tech structure (sort of like a teepee). It is environmentally friendly and offers low impact housing at locations like the Indian Village at Moshe Avnes Eitan in the Galilee. All include small kitchenettes and air-conditioning, while some even include jacuzzis. Combine that with a fresh outdoor breakfast and optional personal massage and you have an eco-tourism option that allows you to feel close to nature and close to comfort.
There are also many green kibbutzim available through the Green Kibbutz Group, an organization of sustainable communities such as Harduf (who pioneered organic food n Israel), Lotan, Ketura, Samar, Ein Harod Ihud and others. Visit www.kibbutzlotan.com for more information. Kibbutz Reim in the western Negev is the first ever community in Israel to rely entirely on solar energy for domestic consumption, which is also true of the Bedouin village of Darijat.
Kfar Tavor has hotel and cyclist services in the lower Galilee near Lake Kinneret and Tiberias. Here you’ll find both guided cycling tours and extreme cycling in the north, with a unique bed and breakfast designed especially for cyclists called HooHa Cyclists House. Visit www.hooha.co.il/english
For comprehensive information on travel to Israel visit the Israel Ministry of Tourism’s website at www.goisrael.com
READER REPORT 8 Days in the Holy Land
This month we invited Bill McCue, MCC, CTC,
to share his thoughts on a recent Fam trip to Israel presented by Sunny Land Tours:
“Israel is an easy-to-sell, easy-to-get around destination,” says Bill from Travel Matters, Inc., based in Birmingham, AL and New York. “It offers something for everyone with points of interest in religion, sports, history, the Bible, archeology, scholarship and just relaxing. El Al was my carrier of choice, and I'm glad. Airport check in was handled courteously, and efficiently. Every passenger boarded their El Al flight knowing full well that every safety precaution had been taken. Cabin service was good, timely, and efficient, thanks to the energetic, well-trained and well-managed crew. There are so many things to see and do in Israel that will appeal to everyone. Be sure to bring your camera for the Western Wall and Dome of the Rock, swimsuit for the Dead Sea and the Sea of Galilea, and denims for the camel ride! From Caesarea to Akko, the Golan Heights, Dead Sea Scrolls, Holy City of Jerusalem, the Chagall Windows, the Mount of Beatitudes, the beautiful beaches of Tel Aviv, the Port of Haifa, the Bahai Shrine...this was some trip! Can’t wait to return!”