A Visit to Taiwan for the Lantern Festival
By Marian Goldberg
I arrived at Taipei’s Taoyuan International Airport (www.taoyuanairport.gov.tw/english/index.jsp) and easily met my driver, who was holding a sign with my name. It was a surprisingly balmy day, not at all what I expected given the fact that I had just barely managed to escape another “storm of the century” in New York. The black, leather-seated sedan spun out onto the highway, and we cruised south for about three hours past cities, farmland and Taoist and Buddhist temples to Chiayi, a city of 270,000 people in the Southwestern plains of the 14,400 square mile island. It was here that I had come for the annual Taiwan Lantern Festival, the county’s largest and most spectacular festival that changes locations around the country annually. It opens 15 days after Chinese New Year, and this was the opening day. According to Mayor Huang Min-hui, the 8 day event would be the biggest thing to come to Chiayi City in 300 years!
The festivities would begin with speeches at 6 p.m., followed by lanterns illuminated at 7. Thus, at about 5:00 in the evening in the lobby of the Jafusun Prince Hotel (www.princehotels.co.jp/janfusun-e) in nearby Koo-Kung Hsiang, I met up with a group of four other Americans and our bi-lingual guide, Johnson Hu–a former Taiwanese journalist–and proceeded by chartered motor coach to the festival.
Upon arriving at the century-old Chiayi Park, we jumped out of the bus and made our way through the dense tourist crowds, past street vendors and a sea of lanterns created by school children, corporations, tourist attractions and even foreign governments. In fact, mainland China sent a magnificent lantern–a replica of the Confucius temple in Nanjing–for the first time. I had assumed the lanterns were made of paper, but I touched some of them and realized that these “professional lanterns” were actually made of stretch fabric over intricate wire-shaped designs enclosing electrical lights.
There was so much to see, but we were rushing to a very special introductory performance–the lighting of the main lantern–entitled “Blessing Arrives in the Treasure Island.” The “Blessing” was an enormous, revolving tiger lantern leaping over a rainbow-like bridge. The Chinese believe the Tiger to be vivid, auspicious, lively, engaging and very brave. Since 2010 is the Year of the Tiger, this tiger lantern was illuminated to backdrop of music and fireworks. It was dramatic and spectacular beginning to my amazing eight-day journey around the beautiful and mysterious island the 16th Century Portuguese sailors called “Ihla Formosa.”
Struck by Taiwan’s Natural Beauty
After my dramatic introduction to Taiwan’s “beauty in light,” our small group drove further along the southwest coast, exploring some Portuguese seafaring history and the Fokuangshan Buddhist Monastery (www.fgs.org.tw) on the way to Kaohsiung. From here, we took a flight to Hualien in east-central Taiwan along the Pacific Ocean. After landing, we drove north and then east through the mountains across the Taroko Bridge to explore the magnificent 3,000-foot-high marble cliffs of Taroko Gorge (www.taroko.gov.tw).
Taroko Gorge is a geological phenomenon caused by the Great Eastern Rift. The Philippine Sea plate sub-ducted under the Eurasian continental plate about 6.5 million years ago, forcing up the mountains that today so captivate visitors from around the world. In the 1950’s, some 6,000 workers, including prisoners, cut a road into the gorge with hand axes. The Eternal Spring Shrine, above a waterfall a short distance into the park, is a memorial to the 212 men who lost their lives building what is today part of the Central Cross-Island Highway that connects Taiwan’s east and west coasts.
The serpentine drive through Taroko Gorge–one of the country’s six national parks–takes visitors along swift-rushing streams, past waterfalls and up and down dramatic hills. The Central Mountains offer the lush vegetation of a sub-tropical forest like trumpet lilies, crocus, and azaleas as well as hemlocks, spruces, and firs at higher altitudes. At its narrowest point, the part of the Gorge road called the Tunnel of Nine Turns is pressed so tightly between sheer cliffs that only a slice of sky is visible above. Well-marked trails offer hiking opportunities that range from easy to difficult throughout Taroko National Park. We hiked up stairs to a small shrine, but realized after huffing and puffing that we were only 1/5 the way to the top, so we came back down before going on to lunch. There is also a 20-kilometer bike route from the village of Tianxiang down through the Gorge that takes about three hours and brings riders up-close-and-personal with nature’s magnificence.
We spent an evening in Taroko National Park at the luxurious Silks Place Taroko (www.silksplace-taroko.com.tw), where 80 square meter deluxe guest rooms with complimentary WiFi offered sweeping views of the mountains, king-sized poster beds and walk-in closets leading into an expansive bathroom with deep soaking tub. Their buffet dinner offered select-your-own fresh meat, fish, and fowl, which was prepared in front of us. At 8 p.m., to celebrate the lunar New Year, we assisted the staff in lighting cylindrical red paper lanterns that, when released, soared off into the night sky to become dancing specs of light like sparkling satellites in the distance.
From the Taroko area it was a two-hour express train ride northwest back to Taipei. Upon arrival, we checked into the Grand Formosa Regent Taipei (www.grandformosa.com.tw), which was our home-base for four nights. From here we made day trips to numerous Taiwanese natural wonders. We visited Yang Ming Shan National Park (www.ymsnp.gov.tw/HTML/ENG/INDEX.ASP) with its dormant Mt. Datun volcano and its geothermal natural hot spring baths and separate hot spring bath facilities for men and women.
We also drove northeast about 30-minutes to Yehliu Geopark (www.ylgeopark.org.tw/ENG/info/YlIntroduction_en.aspx), a cape on the north coast between Wanli town and Keelung City renowned for its “sea erosion landscape.” The Yehliu Promontory stretches slightly more than one mile into the ocean and was formed as geological forces pushed Datun Mountain. The area is scattered with exotic-looking hooddoo stones and rock formations that are also fun to touch and walk through. The most famous structure is The Queen’s Head (supposedly Queen Elizabeth). It’s an iconic image in Taiwan and an unofficial emblem for the town of Wanli. Other formations include The Fairy Shoe, The Bee Hive, The Ginger Rocks and The Sea Candles. Others are yet unnamed, and there was a sign up in English and Chinese requesting visitors to submit their suggested appellation for one particular unnamed stone sculpture.
Urban Taipei
My last few days in Taiwan were spent on urban pursuits – visiting museums and monuments, eating, and shopping. I couldn’t wait to visit the National Palace Museum (www.npm.gov.tw). Its collection of more than 650,000 pieces of Chinese artifacts and artworks spans 8,000 years of history, from the Neolithic age to the late Qing dynasty. It is one of the largest and most visited museums in the world. The collection was brought from the Palace Museum in Beijing to Taiwan by Chiang Kai-shek’s Nationalist Government in order to save them from China’s cultural revolution. Its most famous work is a Qing dynasty jadeite “smart carving” of a cabbage hiding a large and small grasshopper within its leaves. The carving embodies a perfect three-in-one union of intrinsic nature, human creativity, and symbolic significance. It also claims the unique provenance of having been a special gift to the king from his concubine’s father. So revered, it is reproduced in hundreds of items in the museum gift shop, and like so many other visitors, I couldn’t resist.
Speaking of hours, Taipei 101 (the former tallest building in the world, surpassed by Dubai’s Burj Khalifa in 2007) is open until 10 p.m. I was thoroughly impressed with the view of the sprawl of Taipei city from 89 stories up, even though the elevator ride took less than a minute! At a speed of 55.22 feet per second, it is the fastest elevator in the world. That in itself is worth the experience. The 89th floor is not just a series of chachka-filled gift shops. There is an incredible display of art, including permanent installations and a changing exhibition gallery that showcased contemporary Taiwanese ceramics and leather crafts. There was also a short movie on the history, construction and engineering of the building that was quite astounding, especially given that just the day before I had experienced a 6.45 Richter Scale earthquake from the 19th Floor of my hotel room! Fortunately, the Grand Formosa Regent Hotel’s construction allowed the room to just sway back and forth. In fact, Taipei 101 takes technology to the max, incorporating the world’s largest spherical steel mass damper system (1.765 million lbs.) to insure it withstands even the most severe earthquake shocks.
I was also impressed with how much the building’s modern design borrows from traditional Chinese culture. Both the interior and exterior incorporate the pagoda form and the shape of bamboo flowers. The lucky number eight, which means blooming or success, is represented by the eight “cup-like” sections or “flowers” on the exterior of the building. The only disappointment was that we didn’t have a clearer day on which to view the city from the 91st floor outdoor observation deck.
Dim Sum and Yum
I can’t leave Taiwan without telling you a little something about the food. Even for a non-pork eater like myself, I enjoyed superb fish, fowl, noodles, and vegetables all around the country. At the world famous Ding Tai Fong Dumpling House in Taipei (www.dintaifung.com.tw/en/index.asp), they even prepared special vegetable and fish dumplings for me. At the historic Wistaria Tea House (www.wistariahouse.com), a bastion of tea culture and former literary and artistic gathering place, I had some incredible oolong tea picked fresh from the mountains of Taiwan. At Sit-Fun Shih Tang (www.sit-fun.com.tw), I enjoyed health-conscious local Taiwanese dishes and spoted some local celebrities. About half-an-hour out of the city, in the mountain village of Jiufen, my American colleagues and I shared sweeping vistas of hills and valleys from the terrace of Kunohe Restaurant (www.kunohe.com.tw), where we dined on salad, whole grilled fish, thick crab soup with a pyramid of rice, a spicy chicken and peanut dish and about five other dishes that just kept coming before the final dessert fruit arrived. In addition to these restaurants, we also had fun browsing the Night Market at Shilin near the Jiantan metro station, where the fried chicken stand near the Yang Ming movie theatre draws a large crowd.
Before We Go...
It was the last day, and we were now en-route to the Taoyuan Airport to return home. However, we still made a couple of final stops in the outlying regions of Taipei County. First we visited Zushih Taoist Temple, which was originally built in 1767 by Fukienese immigrants from Quanzhou but reconstructed several times, most recently in 1947 by the masterful Western-educated Taiwanese artist Li Mei Shu. A special feature of this temple is that all the walls and columns are sculpted from stone in a variety of period styles.
Next we toured the Yingge Ceramic Museum (www.ceramics.tpc.gov.tw/en-us/Home.ycm). We arrived just a day after the opening of the Fifth Taiwan Ceramics Gold Awards exhibition, which showcased the extreme variety and quality of Taiwanese ceramic artists. The exhibition was wonderful and I wished I had had more time.
For more information contact the Taiwan Tourism Bureau at tbrocnyc@gmail.com, 212-867-1632 or online at www.go2taiwan.net
Asia’s New Island of Tourism: Taiwan
By Marian Goldberg
It’s no wonder Taiwan considers itself the hub of Asia. This island-nation off the Southeast coast of Asia is just 100 miles from Fuzhou, China; 600 miles from Japan; 500 miles from Hong Kong and 220 miles from the Philippines. That means that from Taipei you can fly anywhere in Asia in less than four hours. Tourism executives are determined to educate the traveling public on this feature as well as the unique aspects of the Taiwanese culture.
Taiwan’s 14,400 square miles are home to 23 million people. Since nationalists founded Taiwan in 1949, the country has been known as an “island of industry.” However, according to Michael Chang, PhD., Director of the Taiwan Tourism Office in New York, today the government and Taiwanese are transforming their homeland into an “island of tourism.” In fact, in 2002 a goal was set to double international tourism arrivals to five million. Taiwan now hopes to reach this goal by 2012.
America is Taiwan’s top source market in the West, following behind Japan, Hong Kong, and China. Notably, the American visitors are even greater in number than the Koreans and Singaporeans who are geographically much closer. Taiwan counts about 2.2 million international visitors, 272,858 of which were from the United States. In 2009, international arrivals reached 4.39 million with 369,258 arriving from the United States—a sharp increase from previous years. They had an unfortunate 4.5% setback in 2008 due to the world economic situation, however inbound tourism is now rebounding and some travel patterns are beginning to shift. For instance in 2003, 85% of its international visitors were primarily business travelers with just 10% as leisure travelers. However, in 2009, business travel decreased to 72% tilting the balance so 25% of the inbound tourists were leisure vacationers.
Image Making
Among the Taiwan Tourism Board’s goals for 2010 is the establishment of a tourism image that would integrate several concepts—Beautiful Taiwan, Unique Taiwan, Friendly Taiwan and High-Quality Taiwan—all of which would underscore the high quality of life and tourism product including tours, accommodations, and transportation.
Taiwan is also strengthening its promotional efforts in other complimentary areas such as cuisine, which is far more extensive than most American travelers most likely associate with this country. It is far grander than what we have come to know as Chinese-American food sold in our neighborhoods. Likewise, Taiwan wants to be recognized for its cultural diversity. While 80% of the population is Han Chinese, 270,000 residents are native Taiwanese, who belong to 13 indigenous tribes living in the rural mountain region.
Taiwan has embraced the benefits of technology in its transportation systems. Just three years ago Taiwan launched its Taiwan High Speed Rail (THSR) service that rides at 186 miles per hour. An express THSR train runs along the 208-mile route that sweeps along the island’s west coast from Taipei to Kaohsiung in just 90 minutes. The THSR is a fast, comfortable and experiential travel option.
Last July, Taipei City’s long-awaited Neihu Mass Rapid Transport (MRT) line opened, extending the MRT by nearly 25 miles. Now a journey from Taipei’s Main Station to Songshan Airport takes just 12 minutes, with a trip from Jiannan Station in Dazhi to Zhongxiao Fuxing Station taking the same time—a considerable reduction for those traveling to Taipei’s East District from Neihu.
A Land of Festivals
Taiwan is also integrating its spectacular festivals in all of its promotional material. The Lantern Festival is the most important and is held in a different location in February each year, 15 days after Chinese New Year. Visitors will find auspicious lanterns, traditional lanterns, innovative and funny lanterns shaped like animals, and lanterns so dramatic that they have won contests and awards.
The second most important festival is the Dragon Boat Festival, held on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, usually falling in June. Historically, since summer was the time when diseases most easily spread, the Dragon Boat Festival began as an occasion for driving off evil spirits and pestilence and for finding peace in one’s life. In the Dragon Boat Races, competing teams drive their boats forward to the rhythm of pounding drums. In recent times, the festival was enriched by a commemoration of the work of the patriot poet Chu Yuan (ca. 340 BCE - 278 BCE).
The Mid-Summer Ghost Festival begins on the first day of the Seventh lunar month. It is marked by the opening of the tower gate of the “Old Venerable” Temple. On the 12th day, lamps on the Main Altar are lit and a spectacular multi-colored illumination descends. On the 13th day, a procession of dipper lanterns is held and greeted by attendants. On the 14th day, a parade is held for releasing the water lanterns. On the 15th day, water lanterns are officially released and sacrificial rites for delivering the ghosts are performed both in public and private. A ceremonial dance is also performed to welcome deity Chung Kwei to awe the ghosts and keep them in order. The festival is most famous in the provincial city of Keelong.
The Mid-Autumn Moon Festival is held on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month (usually in October) when the moon is large, round, and looming. The moon is a symbol of happiness, and this festival is a time for families to share warm memories, usually out in the open air where they can view the moon, while enjoying traditional moon cakes.
Opposite the Mid-Autumn festival, is the Spring Remembrance Festival or Qingming Festival. This roughly translates to “Tomb Sweeping Festival,” and celebrants honor their ancestors at grave sites. In Taiwan it is observed on April 5. The ruling Kuomintang moved it to that date in commemoration of the death of Chiang Kai-shek. People welcome spring enjoying picnics, flying kites, and playing outside.
Taiwan plans to organize some press fams in conjunction with some of these festivals. Their press trip will visit the Lantern Festival. Please read about it in the April issue of Jax Fax.
Reaching Out to Leisure Travelers
Tawain has set up certain programs to specfically attract the leisure traveler. The tourist office is offering a free half-day tour for Transit Passengers. Taiwan has more than two million transit passengers annually. The transit tour will give them a glimpse of Taiwan and hopefully encourage them to come back with their friends and family for a more in-depth travel experience.
The tourist office is also offering a “seasonal giveaway” to every traveler booking a Taiwan tour. Travelers receive these promotional items from their Taiwan-specialist travel agent or from their airline. Giveaways include: a one-day Taipei MRT (subway) ticket, and for those flying into Kaohsiung, a Kaohsiung sightseeing cruise ticket; a free theme park entrance ticket; a voucher to be exchanged for a Taiwanese locally-produced agricultural product; and a voucher for a hot-spring bath.
The tourist office is reaching out directly to travelers at Consumer Travel Shows such as the February shows that took place in Boston, Los Angeles and New York recently.
Targeting the Travel Trade
In conjunction with the consumer travel shows as well as separately in association with travel trade-only exhibitions, Taiwan is offering travel agent training intensives. One recently took place in Boston, and another will take place this month, March 9 in conjunction with PATA New York, and March 18 in Miami in conjunction with Seatrade. From April 14-17, Taiwan is also planning to participate in the Ft. Lauderdale Home-based Agent Travel Show, although they have not yet planned a specialist training program during this period. Currently, Taiwan counts more than 100 Taiwan
Travel Specialists.
Taiwan Tourism is offering incentives for tour companies to create new Taiwan travel products by offering tour operators subsidies for promotional expenses, providing them with souvenirs, welcome cards, and tickets to live performances that they can either give out to clients or add to packages in their tour offerings as well as promotional banners.
Several tour operators have aready created new Taiwan products for 2010, such as Pacific Holidays (www.pacificholidaysinc.com); SITA World Tours (www.sitatours.com); Majestic Holidays (www.majestic-vacations.com); Royal Scenic Tours (www.royalscenic.com); and Pacific Delight Tours (www.pacificdelighttours.com). Taiwan is planning to advertise in the travel trade and some consumer publications in 2010 as well as engaging in e-blast promotions.
For more information, contact the Taiwan Tourism Office in New York, 212-867-1632; email tbrocnyc@gmail.com; or visit www.go2taiwan.net