Orange spires rising among verdant green greets the visitor to Las Médulas, an ancient gold-mining site in the El Bierzo region of Spain. These orange-looking formations are actually red clay structures that developed as a result of Roman mining practices. This was the most important gold mine in the Roman Empire and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

 

It takes a little hiking to get to the lookout point where you get the best view, but it’s worth the effort.

 

Another natural resource visitors to North Spain will enjoy is its wine country. JAX FAX visited the Bierzo Wine Route with a tour of the Palacio de Canedo winery. Even those who don’t have an interest in wine will want to take this tour as the landscape of the vineyards and beyond is gorgeous.

 

 

On the Way to the Galician Coast: A Medieval Village and 9th Century Church
As pilgrims make their way from Castilla y Leon to Galicia, where St. James’ remains are said to be located at the Cathedral de Santiago, there are Medieval villages to explore. One such village is O Cebreiro. On JAX FAX’s visit Gaelic music could be heard in the background as tourists strolled among the village’s famous thatched-roof stone houses.

 

At least one of these houses has been preserved so that you can go inside to see how people traditionally lived in this part of Spain centuries ago.

 

One of the most iconic landmarks in O Cebreiro is the Santa María la Real church, which dates to the 9th century and is one of the oldest surviving churches along the Camino de Santiago.
As you move further toward the coast in Galicia, another stunning historical religious site is the Monastery of San Xulian de Samos in Samos. This is an active Benedictine monastery that was founded in the sixth century. The monastery has been rebuilt and renovated multiple times but retains a sense of its history. The grounds are also pastorally beautiful with a stream running alongside it and an orchard that had apples in bloom during JAX FAX’s visit in October.

 

 

Taste of the Traditional Galician Lifestyle
The agricultural life in Galicia is more than a quick view out the window as you go speeding past in your car. Especially along the Camino, where most pilgrims walk or ride a bicycle, the life of the farmer and artisan are happening just over the visitor’s shoulder.

 

JAX FAX experience a little of this life at Arqueixal, a family farm that produces artisanal cheese and other dairy products. Part of the eco-agro tourism movement in Galicia, the farm allows visitors to participate in cheesemaking and to tour the house where the owner’s family at one time lived, and where, as a video that is shown to visitors attests, the matriarch of the family made the cheese.

 

Those who really want an authentic experience can spend the night in such traditional, highly rustic lodging in a 200-year-old house that has been preserved.

 

A similar hands-on experience can be had at “MilhUlloa,” a women’s co-op farm where JAX FAX participated in the picking of yarrow flowers, rosemary, sage and oregano. The yarrow flowers are used by the farm to make skincare products while the many additional herbs and plants grown at the co-op are put to other uses. The travel group was treated to an herbal tea tasting made from plants grown on the property. Just beyond where this presentation took place was the road where pilgrims on the Camino often paused to watch, listen and wave.

 

Being Northern Spain, another medieval architectural gem is never too far away. JAX FAX capped off the experience of traditional Galician farming and artisanry with a stop at Pambre Castle, a Medieval fortress located in Palas de Rei. It is considered a prime example of medieval military architecture.

 

JAX FAX also got a tour of the Church of San Salvador de Vilar de Donas, a Romanesque church. It was founded in the 12th century as part of a monastery for nuns, and was later donated to the Order of Santiago, a military and religious order, becoming a burial site for knights. It features 15th century frescoes that are not to be missed.

 

 

Ultimate Goal: Cathedral de Santiago and the Sea
The Camino is filled with eye-popping churches and castles, mountains and open countryside, so it’s easy to forget that for serious pilgrims this is a journey with a goal: to reach the Cathedral de Santiago.

 

The Cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site bearing original Romanesque architecture with later additions of Gothic and Baroque styles.

 

As gorgeous as the interior of the church is, also stunning are views of the rooftop, which are open for tours. JAX FAX experienced this panoramic view of the city of Santiago and the surrounding landscape. The impressively knowledgeable guide shared details about the cathedral’s architecture, including its intricate stonework and sculptures.

 

A symbol of the pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago is the seashell. It is said that St. James’ remains were brought by boat to the Galician coast before the burial at the Cathedral de Santiago. For that reason, traveling to the coast to pick up a seashell to show you made it there became a tradition for pilgrims.

 

The journey from Santiago to the coast offers the chance to explore the village of Ponte Maceira in the municipality of Negreira, Spain. The village is located on the Tambre River and is considered among the most beautiful villages of Spain. It includes a bridge that dates to the 12th century. According to legend, St. James’ disciples escaped just before it collapsed on their Roman pursuers.

 

When you do make it to the sea, you will be rewarded with the chance to visit Igrexa de Santa Columba de Carnota, which nearly overlooks the sea. This church also dates to the 12th century and offers another example of memorable Romanesque architecture. It is dedicated to Saint Columba, a Galician saint who lived in the 6th century and is patron saint of the town of Carnota.
After visiting the church, you walk onto large rocks jutting into the sea. Those with steady feet and good balance can climb to the edge of the rocks to pay homage to Cruceiro de Hio, a traditional Galician stone cross that serves as a religious symbol and a marker of pilgrimage routes and sacred sites.

 

Or you can walk to the Faro de Punta Insua lighthouse located alongside the shore. It was built in the 19th century but has been renovated and modernized. It is now equipped with modern technology so it can continue to function as a lighthouse. You get a sense of the past lighting the way into the future in Galicia, and Northern Spain as a whole. Magnificent centuries-old structures on a pastoral landscape guiding pilgrims and visitors on transformational journeys.

 

 

Getting There
JAX FAX traveled non-stop from John F. Kennedy International Airport in New York City to Adolfo Suárez Madrid–Barajas Airport (MAD) in Madrid, Spain, then was transported by car to the city of Burgos. This was an approximately 2.5-to-3-hour drive.

 

 

Where to Stay
In Burgos, JAX FAX stayed at AC Marriott Burgos
In Leon: Hotel Real Colegiata San Isidoro Recommended for Leon (Historic heritage): Parador de Leon
In Astorga: Hotel Casa de Tepa
In Villafranca del Bierzo: Hotel & Restaurante El Casino
In Portomarín: Pousada de Portomarin
In Santiago de Compostela City Centre:Eurostars Araguaney

 

What to Eat
JAX FAX enjoyed many hours-long meals in Castilla y Leon and Galicia. These meals typically started with freshly baked bread served in such generous portions that it sometimes seemed like an individual diner ended up with a quarter of a loaf. Then would come multiple small courses like tapas, leading to a meat or seafood course, then dessert and then coffee. At least a couple bottles of wine per meal were polished off. Here are some of the standout restaurants where JAX FAX dined:
In Burgos: Puerta Real and En Tiempos de Maricastana
In Carrion de Los Condes: Restaurante Las Vigas El Abad
In Villafranca del Bierzo: La Puerta del Perdon
In Samos: A Pontenova.
In Portomarín: Restaurante Pousada de Portomarín
In Palas de Rei: Restaurante Parada das Bestas
In Santiago de Compostela: Restaurante “Indómito” con una estrella Michelín, restaurant”Pampín”, restaurante “O Sendeiro”.
In Fisterra: Restaurante “Tira do Cordel”
In Muxía: Restaurante A Lonxa d´Álvaro