you can soak up the atmosphere, learn some history, review your French, and wander.
It’s a city of 1.9 million filled with festivals and cultural events that enrich any visit.For our mid-summer escape, we situated ourselves at the Hotel Bonaventure, 900 Rue de la Gauchetiere West, drawn to its downtown location and intrigued by photographs of the outdoor pool. Both delivered.

With so much to do and see in this city, prioritize to maximize your time here. Consider using the Montreal subway system – Metro de Montreal – that whisks you closer to various neighborhoods to explore by foot. Check an online map before you leave home, and secure a paper map from your hotel to refer to from time to time.
Based on our research and wanderings, here are two walking guides to get you started:

Downtown
Located between the St. Lawrence River and Mount Royal, the downtown of Montreal is an intriguing mix of squares, universities, restaurants, retail, and arts venues including Place des Arts, packed with six performance halls.

From our hotel, we rode the Metro from Bonaventure to Place-D’Armes on the Orange line toward Montmorency, and strolled along Rue Saint Urban through Chinatown to Rue Sainte-Catherine. Spanning nine miles from east to west, it bursts with life for the first-time Montreal visitor.

We stopped at the Complexe Desjardins,150 Rue Sainte-Catherine West, home to 110 boutiques and restaurants, to catch its central illuminated fountain. Walking west on Rue Sainte-Catherine, we found Place des Arts, the center of cultural arts, and Place des Festivals, an adjacent outdoor space, home to free entertainment and a 235-jet fountain.

Before you leave home, check the schedule for the various art venues for performances of interest during your stay. As you stroll Rue Sainte-Catherine West, you will pass the St. James United Church, 463 Sainte-Catherine West, built in 1887-1888 in High Victorian Gothic Revival style. This towering structure hosts Le Balcon, nightly dinner and shows. Programs include jazz, blues, and Motown. Options are bar, tapas, and dinner menus. Other options are performances at Espace St-Denis,1594 Saint-Denis, which includes a studio-cabaret and a French brasserie-style restaurant.

If you’ve ventured farther than planned, another Metro line – the Green – stops at Place des Arts, eventually connecting to the Orange line to get you back where you started.
For quick, tasty breakfasts close to our hotel, we found La Fabrique de Bagel, 1000 Rue de la Gauchetière West, which has seven other locations throughout the city. Smoothies, bagel sandwiches, coffee. It’s a good place to pour over your map – paper or online!
For an easy dinner or snack at Le Kube in the Hotel Bonaventure, we give high marks to a caramelized fig pizza with ricotta, and pine nuts.

Old Montreal and Old Port
One way to explore this neighborhood on your own is to ride the Metro from Bonaventure two or three stops on the Orange line to Place-D’Armes or Champ-de Mars.

From Place D’Armes, follow Boulevard Saint Laurent to Rue Saint Paul, the oldest street in Montreal, dating to the early 1670s. Alternatively, from Champ-de-Mars, follow Rue Bonsecours to Rue Saint Paul. Ultimately, look for Rue de la Commune, the closest street to the St. Lawrence River. Otherwise, you can stroll on Promenade de Vieux Port. Four piers jut into the St. Lawrence River in this area, and, depending on what you want to see, be prepared to walk quite a bit. The July day we were there the mercury rose into the 80s, and with some humidity, we couldn’t walk as much as we thought we would.

Whichever route you choose, look for the Clock Tower rising in the distance and La Grande Roue de Montreal, a 60-meter-high observation wheel at the Old Port of Montreal between the Jacques-Cartier and Clock Tower Piers. Activities abound here from cruises, rides on the observation wheel, a zipline to pedal boating or just relaxing on a terrace.

For history buffs or if you’re just curious, consider an archaeological tour of the origins of Montreal to the present at Pointe-a-Calliere, Montreal Archaeology and History Complex, a National Historic Site at 350 Place Royale. Another option is the Montreal Science Centre, which includes an IMAX TELUS Theatre, 2 Rue de la Commune West.
Thirsty and hot from walking, we climbed aboard the 715 bus on Rue de la Commune, which brought us within striking distance of our hotel.

Searching for a restaurant that serves a range of choices, we found Restaurant Le Carre, 1191 Rue du Square-Phillips, on our second night in Montreal. Billed as Mediterranean, it more than satisfied. We skipped the appetizers and chose just two entrees: fish & chips de morue and saumon a l’orange. Fresh ingredients and careful preparation in an intimate setting and a reasonable price (approximately US $25 each) means we will be back on our next trip.

We recommend walking around Square Phillips at dusk to experience the light and architecture, and to people-watch. Stop in the Hotel Birks on the square. If it’s romance you’re after, this area obliges.
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