there is no security line. There is no sitting in a terminal wondering why you arrived three hours early. No tiny bottle of water costing the price of lunch. Instead, you settle into your seat, watch Paris disappear outside the window and let France unfold in front of you. That is exactly how I want to travel.

 

Fortunately, for my adventure to Provence, the journey was able to unfold in just that way this past December. The adventure began in Paris aboard Trenitalia’s Frecciarossa, heading south to Marseille. The Paris–Marseille route takes roughly three and a half hours, passing through Lyon Saint-Exupéry, Avignon TGV and Aix-en-Provence TGV before arriving at Marseille Saint-Charles. And suddenly, you are in Provence.

 

 

Discovering the Coastal Charm of Cassis
My colleague and I rented a car from the station when we arrived and headed toward the Provence of little ports, stone villages, Mediterranean light, vineyards, thermal waters and restaurants where lunch can become an afternoon. That part of Provence was where my heart had been leading me and suddenly Cassis appeared.

 

Our first night was at the Hôtel Liautaud in Cassis, a boutique hotel perfectly situated on the port. It is one of those little stops along the way that is quaint and whispers rather than talks too loudly. A fishing harbor takes center stage, surrounded by pastel buildings, cafés and restaurants, with the limestone cliffs of the Calanques rising beyond.

 

Visiting in December gave Cassis a different personality from its summer self. The crowds were gone, the pace was slower and I found myself becoming part of the essence of the place. Travelers should spend an afternoon wandering the harbor and old streets and, if conditions permit, walking toward the Calanques. Cassis offers hiking, vineyards, Cap Canaille and the extraordinary Calanques National Park, where dramatic cliffs meet the Mediterranean. And wine, of course, is very much on the menu. Cassis has its own AOC wines, making a vineyard visit and tasting a worthwhile addition to any itinerary.

 

 

A Different Side of Provence in Gréoux-les-Bains
From the coast, my journey moved inland to Gréoux-les-Bains and the Hôtel & Spa Villa Castellane. This is a completely different Provence. Gréoux-les-Bains is a thermal town in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, known for its relaxed atmosphere and wellness traditions.

 

Villa Castellane occupies a historic 19th-century residence associated with the Marquis de Castellane. Across the way are the thermal baths, making it an ideal place to stop, unwind and embrace the slower pace of the region. As my colleague and I moved from destination to destination, each stop revealed a different personality, adding authenticity to the experience.

 

While wandering the village of Gréoux-les-Bains, I found it to be an excellent base for exploring the landscapes of the Verdon region and the Provençal interior. My advice is simple: resist the temptation to over-schedule. Sometimes the best thing to do in Provence is absolutely nothing.

 

 

Returning to the Mediterranean on the Côte Bleue
The following day we returned to the Mediterranean and Carry-le-Rouet, where we stayed at Hôtel Bleu. Located on the Côte Bleue west of Marseille, Carry-le-Rouet feels delightfully different from both Cassis and inland Provence.

 

The town revolves around its marina, beaches and rugged coastline. Coastal walking paths and the nearby marine protected area are among its biggest attractions. At the end of the day, embrace the local way of life and find a table beside the harbor for fresh seafood and a glass of wine.

 

While staying at Hôtel Bleu, try to secure a reservation at L’Oursin, the hotel’s intimate gastronomic restaurant overlooking the port. My colleague and I enjoyed dinner there, and it was worth every taste, aroma and moment spent savoring the cuisine.

 

 

The Grand Finale in Aix-en-Provence
To complete the Provence experience, the final stop should be Aix-en-Provence. We stayed at the Hôtel Saint Christophe Aix-en-Provence – Centre Ville, conveniently located near the Rotonde and the famous Cours Mirabeau.

 

Aix-en-Provence is the perfect grand finale. This is the Provence of elegant boulevards, fountains, bustling markets, charming cafés and the artistic legacy of Paul Cézanne. Spend time strolling along the Cours Mirabeau, exploring the old town, browsing the markets, enjoying a leisurely coffee and discovering the city’s many fountains.

 

December adds another dimension to Aix-en-Provence. The city embraces Christmas with enthusiasm, filling its streets with holiday markets, festive lights, Provençal traditions and seasonal celebrations. It is a wonderful way to conclude a journey through Provence, regardless of the time of year.

 

 

When the Journey Becomes the Destination
Then came the final leg of the trip, from Aix-en-Provence back to Paris. This is precisely why I have always preferred traveling by train. The journey itself becomes part of the story, as it did for me while exploring an entirely different side of France before returning to where it all began.

 

This is not a trip built around checklists or rushing from one attraction to the next. It is a journey that rewards those willing to slow down, savor the experience and appreciate the spaces between destinations. And perhaps that is the greatest luxury of all.